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Member#: 6644 Location: Registered: 27-05-2007 Diary Entries: 3072
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3rd July 2017
Hiking - Walking: St Abbs Head and Fast Castle Wind Direction: Wind Stength: Surf / Sea State: Air Temperature: Sea Temperature: Weather: sunny Max Speed: Distance Covered:
Monday 3rd July – Walks ***** St Abbs Head and Fast Castle – sunny
Our third night in the lovely Berwick-Upon-Tweed but we are moving on today
as the road is going to be closed to fit new harbour ladders. So up early
and left about nine with no sign of the workmen and head up to a large
Tesco to stock up on more healthy stuff:) Tides not brilliant for getting
onto Holy Island so we drive into Scotland instead, stopping on the border
for a pic, amazing blue sky with wispy clouds – stunning!
Turn off the A1 at the first opportunity ending up in Eyemouth harbour
where we watch a couple of seals mug the fishing boats as they come in
after fish! Pay carpark so carried on past Coldingham Bay and down the
narrow road into St Abbs with its tiny harbour surrounded by fantastic
cliffs. At £7 a day to park here we leave the dive boats to their fun and
drive just up the hill to St Abbs National Reserve, a nice café, gallery
and the start of the cliff walks and only £3 a day to park but no
overnight!
Mag packs a top salad and we set off down to the cliffs at 10.20. According
to the notice board St Abb’s Head has some of the most spectacular cliffs
on the East coast of Britain and they were not wrong! We were soon on the
cliff path with steep drops down to crystal clear water with great views
down to St Abbs harbour with Holy Island and Bamburgh Castle in the
distance. You could stick to the path or be more adventurous by exploring
out on the rocky crags cut by the sea. The usual birds were here, Gannets
flying out to sea, huge numbers of Guillemots (we did see three on land on
their nests this time though), Razorbills, Kittiwakes, Cormarants and for
the first time this holiday Fulmars. We then came to a tiny beach and the
footpath then skirted the huge Kirk Hill which was good as we didn’t
fancy climbing that! It was here that we came across several dead rabbits
that had been eaten, a bit gross really! It was then a climb up to the
lighthouse which is very short as it’s on a very tall cliff already. With
the old lighthouse keeper’s cottage, lighthouse and a disused red large
fog horn set against the wispy blue sky it was just out of this world:) Mag
read that the inventor of most lighthouses around this coast was the
Grandfather of the Stephenson who wrote Treasure Island and his inspiration
came from visiting so many islands and peninsulas’ with his Granddad to
set up lighthouses :) There was as usual a good breeze blowing so after
walking down to the fog horn we tucked in behind the lighthouse for our
delicious ham salad with a pork pie (semi healthy??). Refreshed we
continued and were surprised to find a small carpark with a narrow tarmac
road leading to it! More extreme birdwatching coming out high above Pettico
Wick, a tiny harbour used to service the lighthouse before the road was
built and yet another carpark! You could follow this road back to the
centre making it a circular walk so we scrambled down and went that way.
Again, the scenery was stunning as you looked over to the high cliffs with
the small Mire Loch in the valley. We were thrilled to see a Weasel
dancing along the drystone wall just ahead of us :)
Nearly back at the centre we came to a closed farm gate with a sign saying
that this was a private road for access to the disabled only and no
overnight stopping with an honesty box asking for £3 but most ignored this
and just went anyway! We passed some old cottage, one a B & B with a
collection of literally hundreds on knitting needles in the conservatory,
then a small enclosure stuffed full of noisy sheep followed by a whopper
bull! The centre carpark was now pretty full with people from The
Netherlands, Switzerland, France, Belgium, Italy and German! A really
European destination :) We moved on looking for somewhere to stop tonight
in Scotland – just because we can!
We check Coldingham beach first, top free carpark but no overnight so back
to the coast road. There is a small road leading to Fast Castle and were
lucky enough to find it! It was to Dowlaw 2 miles down a narrow tarmac
road, more like a farm track including a couple of cattle grids! We do come
to a farm but also a small carpark with an old French campervan already
here. Nice views up to the Firth of Forth so decide to put the kettle on,
there is a sign for the castle ¾ mile down. We speak to a nice couple from
Melrose who say although the path is very steep it’s well worth it. So,
after a cuppa and carrot cake (healthyish???) we set off to the castle.
Once out of a tiny pine wood, a field with two sheep led onto a section
through heather with some of it coming into bloom. The path then drops very
steeply down to a small ruin on a tiny out crop of rock, why they ever
built a castle here goodness only knows but apparently Mary Queen of Scots
visited, she must have been lost!
We sat amongst the ruins for ages watching the bird action – including a
hopeless Fulmer male trying and failing dismally to land on a tiny ledge to
feed the missus!! We slowly made our way back to the van. We decide to
stop here tonight as the Frenchman is staying even though a leaflet we got
says No Overnight Parking, can’t see anyone complaining as we are in the
middle of nowhere!
Mag makes a top stir-fry and we are treated to the most beautiful hare with
golden eyes sitting right beside the van and a lovely red sky sunset. Must
have walked nearly 7 miles, mainly uphill it seems, and are knackered
perhaps we will take it easy tomorrow!
Photo Gallery
here
Tuesday 4th July – sightsee travel in the rain :(
Woke in Fast Castle carpark with the sound of rain on the roof, that’s 6
out of 16 days we have had some rain, only a little depressing! With
tomorrow looking better we decided to do a loop around Scotland ending up
back somewhere near Holy Island so we can bike in. Passed an ugly power
station and cement works, Dunbar with a nice little harbour and some good
places to park but too wet to stop.
Following the coast road, we looked at Tantallon Castle but required an
extortionate entrance fee so quickly moved on past the impressive Bass Rock
covered in bird poo and a lighthouse but you couldn’t park and not the
day for a boat trip although some braved it. Then at North Berwick we found
a Tesco and there is a top hill behind, The North Berwick Law, which would
be worth a climb on a nice day. We found a nice spot at the end of the prom
for lunch watching the terns fishing - again too wet for a walk on the
beach. This is called the Golf route as there are at least half a dozen
courses including Muirfield, the home of the Scottish Open! Heading inland
now for the Lammer Muir Hills a wild moorland area with cattle grids and
sheep on the road but shrouded in low cloud and grey. We passed Whiteadder
Reservoir which leads to the tributary we cycled along the other day,
before heading to the Mc Donald’s in Berwick-Upon-Tweed. It was then our
troubles continued, it always happens when you are having a crap day, the
laptop quickly connected to the free wi-fi but Google Chrome refused to
open even though Mags mobile was working fine – don’t you just love
computers:( We tried updating the virus protection and ran a full scan with
no success so gave up and will have to sort it out at home!
We didn’t think it worth trying our Berwick harbour spot with the road
closure and options to stop overnight within biking distance were looking
thin on the ground just one dead-end lane leading to Goswick. We turned
down the lane not holding much hope of a small carpark at the end with a
bike route to the Island. It looked bad when just past Goswick Golf club
the road ended with a sign saying Private Road access to Coastguard
Cottages only:( but then the good news, there was a bike sign carrying on:)
We checked the OS map and discovered that the path continued to the road to
Holy Island, we just need somewhere to park for the night? Returning to the
Golf Club we saw saying no vehicular access to the beach, walkers please
use the Large Golf Club carpark:)
We thought it a bit cheeky to park without asking so were going to go into
the club house but bumped into an official in a golf buggy and asked if he
knew where we could park for the night so we could bike tomorrow and he
said at the end of their carpark – what a result:) We thanked him and
parked up, we were going to walk to the beach but the rain continues :( Mag
tried to sort out the laptop then cooked another top stir-fry, let’s hope
the nice weather returns tomorrow!
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